Durban Curry

Durban Curry

Where Africa meets India

By Diana Armstrong


Speak to any traveler who has visited South Africa, and they probably will have been to Capetown to enjoy its spectacular scenery, from the winelands of Stellenbosch to the dramatic cliffs of the Southern tip of the continent. They most definitely would have been on a safari to see the "big five" in Kruger National Park but the bet is that they never would have visited the port city of Durban in the province of Kwa Zulu Natal on the South East coast of South Africa.. This is a pity as it is one of the most sensuous and diverse cities in all of Africa. Zulus, Indians and Brits alike can all still be seen in their traditional garb. Beaded African headdresses, iridescent Indian saris, and starched safari outfits all compliment each other on the street of Durban. Brightly beaded rickshaws haul tourists around the city affirming Durban's unique mix of the African, the Indian, and the Anglo.


This tropical paradise is set around a magnificent palm lined bay. It is a city of more than two million people and it is unabashedly colorful. The original inhabitants are the descendants of the warrior King Chaka Zulu. Then in 1820 came very stiff upper lipped British colonials, and in 1860s these British brought indentured Indian workers from South India to cut their sugar cane. The Indian population has a rich history here. Durban was once home to Mahatma Ghandi, who practiced law here in 1893 and stayed for 21 years. He came fresh from his Oxford studies in England to represent down trodden Indian cane-cutters in their fight for rights. You may visit his home in the Phoenix settlement outside Durban.


I was born in Durban, thanks to my grandmother who settled here in 1909. In her twenties, she set sail from Southampton England to work as a hospital nurse in India. The long ocean voyage from Europe to India took her around the southern tip of Africa. She stopped here to break her 3 month voyage, met her husband-to-be and she never got to India. But she almost did, because Durban has the largest population of Indians outside India. So I grew up caught up in this strange masala (mix) of Colonial British starched white clothing and Victorian ideals, Zulu servants who kept large beaded snuff boxes in their elongated ear lobes and Indian cooks who were simmering curries in our kitchens.

The curry of Durban is derived from the peasant curries that were brought by the Indian immigrants from the provinces of Gujerat and Tamil Nadu. It is very spicy red curry, its dominant color coming from the fiery dried chilies used as the major ingredient in the curry powder. In the USA the best equivalent to Durban Curry powder would be a "red curry powder" rather than the normal typical curry powder found on our supermarket shelves which tends to be yellow in color from the turmeric in it. This dish was adopted by the British settlers and also the Zulu inhabitants, simplified and streamlined to become a staple enjoyed by all. It is the one dish that everyone regardless of skin color is passionate about.

In India a typical cook prefers to mix their own curry powder. They will grind and then add all the different individual spices which make up curry powder such as turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, cardamom, to name but a few.

A typical Durban curry is made in a heavy based pan. First onions are browned in oil, then the curry powder is added, then the garlic and ginger and the mixture simmered a little before the lamb, chicken, beef or fish is added. Then the tomatoes are added. The pan is covered and the dish is left to simmer, bringing all the flavors of this rich concoction together. Finally a little cilantro is folded in just before serving.

The curry is usually served over white rice with condiments called chutney and/or sambals and pappadums:

Chutney (derived from the Indian word Chatni) is a fruit and onion based preserve spiced the red chilies. The most famous South African chutney is Mrs. H.S. Ball's Chutney* and can be bought in stores all over the world.

Sambals are small side dishes of chopped peanuts, grated coconut, various fruit chutneys, and sliced bananas.

Pappadums** Indian bread which is made of ground lentils and chick peas. It is usually bought ready made and is deep fried or grilled.

Another popular way to serve Durban curry is in a bread bowl. This dish is called "Bunny Chow". The word "bunny" is derived from the word 'bannia" which in Durban was the word used for an Indian trader. This dish was born out of the divisive days of the apartheid system. In "whites-only" restaurants blacks were served take-away from the curbside. To make Bunny Chow a loaf of bread is cut in half, the center is removed and the curry spooned in. Food on the go is never more delicious than this spicy truly Durban treat. It is always eaten with your fingers.


The best place to find the ingredients for an excellent Durban Curry is the Victoria Market. In my youth this market is where most all food in Durban changed hands, catering to British Colonials, Zulus and Indians alike with its encyclopedia of products and their accompanying tastes and smells. In the 1973 the Victoria market was damaged by fire and later rebuilt on a smaller scale. Today it caters more to tourists but it is still as colorful as ever but in a slightly more sanitized way, although Zulu sangomas - traditional healers still sell very suspicious looking potions that would make Macbeth's witches jealous.

Here, there are 180 stalls, filled with curio dealers selling African beaded everything, carvings, brassware and animal skins of all varieties too. But every second stall within the market is a curry vending establishment. The spicy blends of curry powder have very innovative names such as "mother-in-laws tongue" "steak and chops" "chicken licken" and "green fish". The curry powders are piled into pyramids displayed in large white enamel bowls. The multiple mounds of the different blends have tones of brick reds, burned umber, and mustards.

In this market, the oriental aroma is so strong my childhood is right here with me.
Although my husband and I have lived in the USA since 1978 and love our life in Denver Colorado, the longing for a good Durban Curry has never gone away. The remembering of this spicy rich aromatic ritualistic meal brings the scents of my youth right back to my nose.

Of course there are thousands of ways to make a curry, but what is the basic difference between a true Indian curry and a Durban Curry? "Too many tomatoes" an Indian from India would probably tell you. However to a Western palate the mix of a Durban curry, although sometimes fiery hot, is much more sensuous and less restrained than its Indian cousin. When ideally cooked there is nothing more delicious.



Where to Stay:

If you visit Durban, stay a couple of miles north of the city at one of the magnificent beaches called Umhlanga Rocks. There is a beautiful old Colonial hotel right on the rocks here that looks back onto the bay of Durban. It is a greal deal. The Hotel is The Oyster Box Hotel www.oysterbox.co.za (about $130 a night for a double room).

You can have a delicious Durban curry here served on their outside terrace with a spectacular view of the entire coastline and the city in the distance.

Where to Eat:

The Curry Restaurant at the Royal Hotel opposite City Hall in downtown Durban has an old curry restaurant that brings back the old British Colonial days.

The Jewel of India Restaurant at the Elangeni Hotel on the Beachfront, 63 Snell Parade. This restaurant is right on the ocean in Durban.

Jaipur Palace, Northway, Durban North.. A little out of town. This restaurant serves Durban Curry and also traditional Indian curries from various parts of India.

Kashmire, Umhlanga Rocks. This restaurant is in the chic decidedly up-market suburb, north of Durban, called Umhlanga Rocks.

Side trips:

Durban is a good jumping off point for all the game reserves of Kwa Zulu Natal, such as Hluhluwe Game Reserve and the more up-market luxury Reserve of Phinda.
The big five are right on your door step.

Tourist Information:

Best time to travel? April May and June are glorious.

Visit the Website www.ourafricasafaris.co.za
Or you can email the local tourist board at:
tkzn@iafrica.com


RECIPES

Recipe No. 1.


Durban Curry

Here is a slightly Westernized version of Durban Curry developed for making in American kitchens!

Serves 8

2 pounds cubed lamb, chicken or beef
1/4 cup cooking oil
2 onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon each fresh garlic and ginger paste
4 tablespoons Durban Masala* curry powder (or red curry powder)
2 large tomatoes, finely chopped
2 potatoes, 1/2" cubes
2 carrots, finely sliced
1 stick cinnamon
2 tablespoons apricot preserve
1 tablespoon vinegar
Salt and black pepper to taste
Fresh cilantro for garnish (as desired)


In a heavy based pan, preferably cast iron casserole, heat the oil and add the onion, garlic and Durban Masala. Saute gently until the onion is a little brown. Now add the meat and cook over a medium high heat until the meat is brown, turning frequently. Now add the remaining ingredients. Stir gently and cover with water or chicken bouillon. Bring to a boil. Cover tightly with a lid and place in the oven at 225oF for at least four hours. Re-season and if necessary thicken with a little flour and water.Garnish as desired and serve with white rice, chutney and sambals.

Recipe No. 2

Durban Madras Chicken Curry

This recipe comes from a friend in Durban who always makes an excellent curry.
It is important when browning the onions to get them just right. Not brown enough and the curry will be insipid and too brown, the curry will taste burned. Do take time with this first step of the recipe.

Serves 6 - 8

1/2 cup canola oil
2 onions, chopped
1 whole chicken cut into pieces or 6 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
4 sprigs curry leaves (if available) or 1 bay leaf
1 can chopped tomatoes
3 tablespoons Durban curry powder or red curry powder
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1 tablespoon each chopped fresh ginger and garlic
1 pod cardamom
1 cup frozen green peas
Chopped cilantro for garnish.
Salt to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy based pan and cook the onions until they are golden brown. Add the spices, ginger, garlic and tomatoes and allow to simmer for five minutes. Add the chicken and season to taste and cook for 30 minutes stirring at intervals. When the chicken is nearly cooked add frozen peas and simmer for 10 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve with rice, chutney and sambals.




*You can buy Durban Curry Powder on line through www.lekker.safeshopper.com. It will be shipped from North Carolina.

**Pappadums are available at Indian supermarkets throughout the USA.